※转录自梅竹岩馆/专题 <http://www.cc.nctu.edu.tw/~u8711514/> ※张忠恕、邱子寰编译 ================================================================= 进入大岩壁的世界 — 认识酋长岩（El Capitan） The Nose --from Dave Bengston's El Cap Page The longest part of El Capitan's face is in the middle, around "The Nose." It rises over 3000 feet from the valley floor, which is around 3500 feet elevation. You can see Half Dome just to the right of El Cap's lower right shoulder. The right side of El Cap is shorter; it ranges from the full 3000 to only about 1000 feet. It's overhanging from the ground to the top. BASE jumpers love it, even though their game is illegal -- but, that is a different story The extreme steepness of the right side is due to the North America shaped areas of more friable dioritic rock. In contrast, the left side is longer, generally around vertical with iron hard granitic rock. 酋长岩岩壁最长的部份是在中间 "The Nose" 附近，从谷底矗立超过三千英尺， 海拔大约三千五百英尺。你可以看到半圆顶岩就在 El Cap 较低右肩的右边， 它的高度从三千英尺到一千英尺，从地面到顶都是悬岩。 BASE jumper 很喜欢它，虽然他们的游戏是非法的，但那是另一个故事了。 右侧非常陡峭是因为北美地形之多变产生的易碎闪长岩； 相反的，它的左侧很长，几乎垂直，充满了坚硬的花岗岩。 There are over 70 different routes up this face, although, their difficulties vary dramatically. Most of them require both Aid and Free Climbing, in some combination. "Aid Climbing" is used when the rock is too shear and steep to climb using only the climber's body, so the rope and gear must also be climbed "Free Climbing," on the other hand, is a game where climbers try not to use the gear and rope for any thing other than a safety net, in case they fall. Fre Climbing, when possible, is quicker, but physically demanding. Aid is technically demanding, but sure and steady. Hard Aid is just plain scary. 这面岩壁上大概有七十条不同的路线，其难度相差悬殊， 大部份都需要人工或自由攀登或是混合攀登。 当岩面太破碎或太陡无法用人身攀登时就用“人工攀登”， 绳子及其他器材都可以来帮助攀登； 相反的“自由攀登”就是攀登者仅使用工具或绳子确保坠落时的安全，不是帮助攀登。 如果可以自由攀登则速度比较快，但是有体力要求； 人工攀登比较需要技术，但较稳定不会失手，困难的人工攀登例外，是很可怕的。 >---------------------------------------------------------------------------< The Nose Beta -Written by Quang-Tuan Luong- The Nose of El Capitan, Yosemite, is one of the most long, beautiful, classic, and sought after, rock climb in the world. 优胜美地里酋长岩的鼻子是世界上最长、最美、最经典、最吸引人的岩壁之一。 Conditions: From May to September, the chances of being hit by a Pacific storm are very low. April and October can be very fine but the weather is less certain. It was not crowded this April. In summer, it gets real hot in the Valley, and consequently on the bottom part of the route. Up high, there is usually a therma breeze which helps a lot. On Labor day the temps are fine. I would recommend a gallon of water in summer plus some extra water (better not to run out), an three quarters otherwise. 状况： 从五月到九月，被太平洋暴风雨侵袭的机会很少，四月和十月也很好但天气 可能不稳定，今年四月较不拥挤。在夏天，在山谷会很炎热，因此影响岩壁 下面的路线。到高处，温暖的和风使人舒服很多，在劳动节的时候，温度就 很宜人。我建议在夏天带一加仑的水再多一点（最好别用完），其他时候四 分之三加仑就够了。 Gear: Two climbers joining their racks have enough. It is always useful to have plenty of free biners. Think about the number you'll need, and then add 10 or 20 more. There are kilometers of crack climbing, so be sure to bring plenty of cams (two full sets). The camalot #4 is not required (several were fixed in th Stovelegs were it is not actually needed 4/94). However, George Bell had one and found it very useful on pitches 12 and 14. He thinks that the importan thing is you need 2 pieces that are either #4 Friends or #4 Camalots. On the other hand, you'll need the RP's for the glowering spot and maybe also abov Camp 6. There is normally no need for pins. 工具： 两个攀岩者的装备合在一起应该就够了。 钩环愈多愈好，估计你需要的量，再加一、二十个， 这条路线有一公里多的裂隙要攀登，所以要带足够的活动岩楔（Friends两整组）， Camalot#4不需要（在 Stovelegs已经有固定点，并不是真的需要）， 然而 George Bell发现在第十二和十四绳距很好用， 他认为应该要带两个 — Friends#4或是Camalots#4。 另一方面，Glowering Spot 和Camp 6以上，可能会需要 RP's。 然而这条路线通常是不需要岩钉的。 Ropes: You need three full ropes, and one 30m rope to fix to Sickle. Have a friend pick up any ropes you leave below Sickle. Several climbers had their rope stolen before they could pick them up after the climb. The day when we fixed, some guys dropped one pack. Then we saw two climbers asking us if it was ours. Afte we said no, they seemed to be heading towards the direction of the impact. If you have to leave your rope, it is probably safer not to drop it. Most partie take three ropes, because it is necessary to lower out for the king swing. However, Bill Wright has done The Nose and recommends some interestin strategies. He recommends taking only 2 50m ropes. He said all the traversing pitches are short enough that you can tie the haul bag in short and lower ou on the end of the haul line. The advantage of 2 ropes is less chance of them getting all tangled together, stuck under flakes, etc. After the pendulum int the Stovelegs, Bill says the leader should begin leading on the haul line. And on the King Swing(s), Bill recommends tieing the pig in as short as possible with the second keeping hold of the end. After the bag is hauled, the leader lowers the second on the haul line which is clipped into the anchor at Boo Flake. The second then clips his jumars into the lead line and swings over to it as he is lowered. This method has been found to work very well by George. 绳索： 你需要三条全绳，和一条三十米的绳子固定在 Sickle， 找个朋友帮你捡回留在 Sickle下的绳子。 很多攀登者的绳子在回来拿之前就被偷走了。 我们架固定绳的那天，不知哪个家伙掉了个背包， 然後我们看到两个攀登者寻问是否我们的，我们说完不是之後， 他们似乎朝向撞击的方向走去。假如你不得不留下绳子， 最好是留在路线上不要解开绳子丢下。大部份的队伍带三条绳子， 因为在King Swing 有必要先下降。 然而 Bill Wright 爬完 Th Nose 後推荐一些有趣的策略， 只要带二条五十米的绳子，他说所有横渡的部份都很短， 你可以使用同一条绳子固定拖包，然後用此绳之另一端下降， 二条绳的好处是比较不会彼此缠结，卡入岩板的机率也比较低。 摆荡到 Stoveleges 後，Bill 说先锋者应该开始用拖拉绳攀登； 到 King Swing後，Bill建议固定拖包的绳索尽量缩短， 由第二位抓住拖拉绳尾端。 当拖包拉上去後，先锋者用拖拉绳把第二位降下（绳索要扣入Boot Flake的固定点）， 在下降的同时第二位将他的犹玛固定至先锋绳，然後摆荡过去， 这种方法 George 用了之後说不错. Belays: The belays are mostly shiny bolts and are all bombproof. They can be used to rap down the route in need (some belays are used only for rapping, some belong also to the climbing route). Using fixed belays and a 165' rope, pitches 10 & 11 can be put together as well as the two pitches before camp 6 ( = above th "glowering spot") and the two pitches after camp 6. It is a good idea in the last two cases because the intermediate belays are not too good 确保： 确保点大部份都是发亮的膨胀锚桩，很安全，需要时可以用它们来下降 （有些只能用来下降，有些属於攀登路线）。 用固定的确保点和一条一百六十五英尺的绳子，第十一和十二绳距可以像 Camp 6 前的两个绳距一样连起来一起攀登。在最後这两个地方是个好主意， 因为中间的确保点都不好。 Difficulty: For my partner and me this was the first big wall (we did before 7 pitches on the South Face of Washington Column, but we had no haulbag and tried a speedascent strategy). However, I would not necessarily recommend the climb as a first big wall. The well-established progression is to do first the Regula Route on the NW face of Half-Dome. If you are a big-wall beginner, you will find Paul Brunner's tips very useful. 困难： 对我的伙伴和我来说这是第一个大岩壁 (我以前在 Washington Column 南面爬过七个绳距，但没有拖包而且是用快速攀登方式)。 然而，我并不推荐第一次就爬这大岩壁，按照级数先爬半圆顶西北面的一般路线， 假如你是个大岩壁入门者，去找 Paul Brunner's tip 很有用。 Collectively, my partner and me had a considerable alpine experience, and we were used to spending days on mountains and long climbs in a more hostile environment. We have found that the route is extremely sustained, compared to most alpine routes but that there was nevertheless no exceptional technica challenge or risk, the main problem being that you tend to be worn by the succession/alternative of hard free and aid, pendulums, traverses, maneuvers stuck ropes and haulbags, hauling and jugging, lack of sleep, food, heat and cold, uncomfortable stances, etc... 整体而言，我的伙伴和我已有相当的阿尔卑式攀登经验， 而且我们常去好几天的登山和在不佳的环境作长距离的攀登。 我已经知道比起其他阿尔卑式路线这条路线很长， 但是没有出乎预料的技术挑战或风险， 主要的问题在於你用连续或替换的自由或人工攀登、摆荡、横渡、 策略、爬绳子、拉拖包、整理东西、缺乏睡眠食物，时热时冷、 保持不舒服的姿势後会筋疲力竭等问题。 The four first pitches are delicate, in the sense that there are not always good placements and you have to do some free (or French-free) between aid moves. Other than this, the crux aid of the route is the "glowering spot", where you climb a steep and thin crack on small nuts, RP's, and TCU/Aliens. The onl part of the route which as to be freed is the Texas Flake at 5.8, but the route would be more enjoyable if you can crack climb at 5.10. Nevertheless yo don't need to be a good climber to complete the route. At the time I did it, I was just able to lead 5.8 or 5.9. The free ratings in the guidebook are no very consistent (but most of the time on the severe side). I am not good enough to judge them objectively, but I've been told that those of Lynn Hill (i French magazine Vertical) or of her partner (in Climbing) are more accurate. There are numerous pendulums, but most of them are not difficult. There are n expanding flakes. 刚开始的四个绳距就需要技巧，要知道放置确保点不是很容易， 只能在人工攀登之间做些自由攀登（或法式自由攀登）的动作。 除此之外，最难的路线是 "glowering spot"， 是一段很陡且细只能用小nuts、RP's和 TCU/Aliens 的裂隙， 这部份的路线就如 Texas Flake 用自由攀登只有5.8，但假如你会5.10的裂隙攀登， 路线会变得比较有趣，不过，你不一定要是个非常好的攀岩者才能完成这条路线， 当时我只能先锋攀登5.8或5.9，自由攀登路线在 guidebook 不是很可靠 （但大部份偏向困难），我能力还不足来评论这些， 据说，Lynn Hill和她夥伴的资讯是比较正确的。 有很多摆荡，但大部份都不难. Bivies: The only good sites on the route are Sickle, Dolt, Towers, Camp 4,5 and 6, the best sites being Towers and Camp 5. On the left and below Camp 4, there is a huge ledge, but it is part of the Muir route, not the Nose. There are a couple of places where you could sit (on Texas flake, Boot flake, under camp 4). I Towers are full, there is a place for two near the base of the chimney on the next pitch. Camp 6 seems to smell as bad as John Long describes it in fall but in April it's fine. 过夜： 唯一比较好的地方是 Sickle，Dolt，Towers，四五六营， 最佳的场所是在Towers和第五营。 在第四营的左边及下面有一个大的岩阶，但那是Muir路线的一部份，不属於Nose； 还有一些能让你坐下来的（在Texas flake，Boot flake，第四营下面）。 假如Towers 客满了，在下个pitch的烟囱基部附近还有一个地方可以让两个人休息， John Long描述第六营在秋天似乎会有怪味，四月的时候就还好。 Timing: The route can normally be done in four days (two nights on the wall): fix the descent from Sickle ledge (4 ropes, from the lowest belay station to the ground it is about 30m so you don't need four full-size ropes), and get the haul bag up to the top of 5th pitch on the first day. Then get an early star the next day, (be jumaring just before first light), and you can make it to El Cap Tower. Early start the next day and you can make Camp 5. If you have opportunity, fix a pitch or two above each bivy. 时间： 这条路线一般四天可以爬完（二个晚上在岩壁上过）：从 Sickle 岩阶下降 （四条绳子，从最低的确保点到地上大概三十米，所以你不需要四条全绳）， 在第一天拖拉装备到第五绳距顶端，然後第二天一大早就出发， （天亮前先用犹玛上升），就可以到达El Cap Tower， 隔天早点出发，可以到达第五营，假如你运气好，可以在过夜前多挂一两个绳距。 In these times, the "crowd factor" is not included. It can take longer if crowded. Often it can be hard to pass and if the climbers ahead of you are slow you may be reduced to their speed it can mean an extra day. George writes: " To get an idea of the crowds, here are our bivuoac sites and the total numbe of climbers sleeping on them that night (including us): El Cap Tower (7 people), Camp 4 (5 people), Camp 5 (7 people). A party of 3 very slow Japanese ahea of us caused many problems because it took them 6 days to climb the route. Everyone was snarling below them. For example, we reached Camp 4 fairly early but the Japanese were at the great roof (having started that day from Camp 4!!) and effectively blocked the way ahead. Incidentally, they failed to reac Camp 5 that night and spent (another) night in slings. " 计算这些时间时，“拥挤因素”不包含在内，假如很多人时间就会拉长， 假如有攀登者在你头上又爬很慢通常很难超越他，只能和他同速前进， 意思就是得多一天的时间。 George写说：『要晓得人数概念，这里有些我们过夜处和人数的资料（包含我们）： El Cap Tower（七人），第四营（五人），第五营（七人）， 有个三人的日本队伍在我们前头且爬得很慢造成很多问题， 因为他们要花六天的时间爬这条路线，每个人在他们後面纠结住了； 譬如我们到达第四营相当早，但日本人在 great roof（那天从第四营出发！！） 完全档住我们的路；附带一提，他们在晚上无法到达第五营，只好绑着渡过夜晚。 Specific route beta: 特别的路线资讯： The pendulum to Stovelegs: 摆荡到 Stoveleges: It is best not to get too high in the crack system before this pendulum, ie use the belay marked with a dashed circled 7 on the Meyers/Reid. This means that when you are at the belay below the "burner" you are already too high. We met two guys who said that the burner is something to avoid. The Stovelegs ar first perfect hand size and get wider as you are climbing up (lots of spots to have the rope stuck). 最好摆荡前在裂隙系统不要太高，就是使用在 Meyers/Reid 虚线所标记 的七号圆圈处确保。这表示当你在"burner"处确保就太高了，我们遇到两 个人说最好不要到Burner，大概就指这意思。 Stoveleges 是第一个符合手大小的裂隙，越往上爬越宽（很多地方会卡住绳子）。 The Texas Flake: The Texas Flake： A chimney, it is the only part of the route which cannot be aided. I thought (I let my partner led it :-)) that the chimney is not that bad, the tricky part being getting inside. George reports (9/96) that there is a brand new 3/8" bolt two thirds of the way up this chimney, which makes the pitch much safer, BU he still managed to fall while leading this pitch. The next pitch is bolt ladder and then a perfect hand crack. Texas Flake 是个烟囱，是路线中唯一不能人工攀登的部份，我觉得 （我让我的绳伴去先锋攀登:-)）那个烟囱并没那麽难，诀窍是要将身体塞进去。 George的报告（9/96）说在爬上烟囱三分之二之处有一个新的3/8"bolt， 让这条路线安全许多，但是他仍然尽量控制在先锋攀登这个绳距时不要坠落。 下一个绳距是一排膨胀锚桩，然後是一个很好的手裂隙。 The King Swing: The King Swing： I would not recommend to do the "King Swing" with only one HUGE swing instead of one big swing and one shorter swing. The two belays are almost at the same height, and there is 15/20m horizontal distance between the two. I also recommend to use a lower-out line for the haulbag. Have the best climber lead th pitch. There are tricky moves after the pendulum, and you might have a lot of rope drag or bad protection, depending whether you clip low points or not 我建议在 "King Swing" 不要只做一个非常大的摆荡， 最好是分成一个大摆荡加上一个小摆荡；两个确保者几乎在同一高度， 约有十五至二十米的平行距离，我也建议用一条较短的绳子将装备降下， 请最强的攀登着来爬先锋，在摆动之後的攀爬有些诀窍动作， 而且可能有很多绳子拉着你或遇到不好的确保点，看你是否挂得太低与否。 Using a 55m lead rope is sufficient for the second to lower himself using the rappel technique, provided that the intermediary point is used. 使用中间点的话，一条五十五米的先锋绳应该足够让第二位下降。 Under Camp 4 (Pitch 20): 第四营下方（第二十pitch）： You'll find a fixed traversing rope. By daylight, what to do is fairly obvious. Not so by night. For god's sake, DON'T follow this rope until its end (you would find an unpleasant "surprise") but leave it as soon as you get to a vague ledge. 第四营下方（第二十pitch）： 你会发现一条固定的横渡绳，在白天一切都很容易的看到，但晚上就没办法， 要注意，不要跟着这条绳子到末端（你会发现一个不好的惊奇）， 最好到达岩阶後就赶紧离开它。 The roof is easy because it is entirely fixed. It is a long pitch. I had just a couple of meters left with a 165 feet (55m) rope. The Pancake flake is nice to climb, but the pitch under camp 5 is nasty. Great Roof 的地方很简单因为都有固定点了， 这个绳距很长，我当时用五十五米的主绳，爬完这个绳距时仅剩不过几米而已。 Pancake flak 很好爬，但是第五营下面的那个绳距很难缠。 The death flake at the top of pitch 31 is still there, as of George ascent (9/96), hanging by the same piece of crappy webbing. As Scott Ghiz mentions in his beta, there is another suitcase sized death block on pitch 32. With a 60m rope, he believes it is possible to combine pitches 31 and 32, thus avoidin the "death block belay" (the party behind them did this). 根据George 9/96的记录，第三十一绳距顶的死亡岩块仍在那里， 用一条瘪脚的扁带吊在那里；在Scot Ghiz的资讯中提到， 另一个手提箱大小的死亡岩块躺在第三十二绳距处， 他相信如果用六十米长的绳子，可以把第三十一和三十二绳距合起来爬， 如此可以避免在死亡岩块处确保。（他之後的一组绳队就是这麽做）。 （译注：死亡岩块是指松动的岩石，如果不幸掉落会对下面攀登队伍造成严重的影响）。 "Got the word that the death block on the Nose is gone. While the park was closed it seems that 2 famous climbers who shall remain nameless rapped in and booted it. Finally, the block that has raised many a tut-tut is gone. Now get up there! Russ Walling, Sat, 29 Mar 1997 " 「据可靠消息指出Nose上的死亡岩块已经不见了。 当优胜美地国家公园关闭时，有两个知名的攀登者溜进去， 并将这个令人啧啧的岩块清掉。」一九九七年三月二十九日。 The last pitch: 最後一pitch： No difficulty (shiny bolt ladder), beware of rope drag, it can turn the final (easy) slab into an unpleasant experience. 最後一pitch： 没什麽困难的（都是新得发亮的固定点），小心绳子卡住， 那将会使这最後的一个斜板变成不快的经验。 >---------------------------------------------------------------------------< 问答集（FAQ） EL CAPITAN, YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK --from Dave Bengston's El Cap Page Frequently asked questions: How long does it take? The average ascent of El Cap takes about 4 days, although, it has been done as fast as 4 1/2 hours -- --That's the record on the nose route, the easiest route up the middle. On the other extreme, it has taken as much as 40 days, and can easily take 7-9 days. The length of an ascent depends on plenty: the weather, the length and difficulty of the route, the experience of the team, the time of year (the length of the days), the number of times that the route has bee previously climbed, and more... 要花多少时间？ 爬上 El Cap 平均大概要花四天的时间，虽然曾有人四个半小时就完成了， 那是nose这条路线的最快记录；相反地，也有人花了四十天， 花个七到九天则是常事；时间的长久会依天气、路线的长度难度、 队伍的经验、季节（白天长短）、路线被爬过的次数等等．． What do you eat? It doesn't help to bring freeze dried food, because we would just have to bring up the water too. We bring whatever we like, but on the shorter routes and summer routes we don't bring a stove. As you might imagine, breads/bagels, canned food (canned fruit is a tremendous hit up there), cheese, fruit, that sor of thing. 吃些什麽东西？ 不限定只能带冷冻乾燥的食物，反正水也是要带的； 基本上，喜欢什麽就带什麽，但是在较短的路线或是夏天我们就不带炉子， 也许你能想像面包、圈饼、罐头（水果罐头在那里是很奢侈的）、 乳酪、水果那类的东西。 How do you sleep? Sometimes we sleep on natural ledges on the cliff, but sometimes we have to bring Portaledges. A portaledge is a metal frame with a hammock strung tight within it, which folds up when not in use. The bed then attaches to a secure point on the rock, that we rig, by adjustable straps on the corners. There' also a rain-fly that goes over this contraption in bad weather. Natural ledges can be comfortable, but there is no changing them, so they can also be ver uncomfortable. After all of the work of the day, fatigue makes it easy to sleep. No matter what, we are tied in to the cliff at all times, even whil sleeping. 怎麽睡觉？ 有时候我们睡在绝壁的岩阶上，但有时候我们要带吊床， 吊床是一种普通吊床紧绑在金属架里面，不用时可以摺叠起来。 调整角落的皮带可以将吊床固定於确保点上； 那也有雨篷奇妙的设计可以渡过恶劣天气。 天然的岩阶比较舒服，但无法调整，也可能会很不舒服， 在累了一天之後，疲劳另人容易入睡， 不论如何，我们在岩阶上随时都将身体绑着，甚至睡觉也一样。 How much do you bring? A 2 man team that plans to spend 6 days might start out with over 200 pounds of gear, which is hauled up, from anchor to anchor, in a big haul bag on the end of a rope. We use a hauling system with a pulley and a cam, to stop the rope from pulling back out. This is an approximate break down. 带多少东西？ 两人绳队六天的攀登计画，装备重量将会超过两百磅， 这些是使用拖包绑在拖拉绳上，从一个支点拉上另一个支点。 我们的拖拉系统有一个滑轮和一个凸轮，在拉绳时才不会往回跑。 大约细分如下： 7-8 gallons of H2O, 60 lbs food, 35 lbs clothes and personals, 40 lbs 2 sleeping bags and 2 pads, 20 lbs 2 portaledges with rain flys, 35 lbs On top of these things are the ropes (2-3 @ 8 lbs each) and hardware. If pitons are required then the pins, carabiners, wedges of metal called stoppers, camming devices, and other hardware weigh 30 - 60 lbs. If no pins are required then "the racks" check in at 15 - 30 lbs. Of course, as you climb the foo and water weight disappears. Even so, there is usually a fair bit to carry down. 七八加仑的水，六十磅 食物，三十五磅 衣服和个人用品，四十磅 二个睡袋睡垫，二十磅 二个有雨棚的吊床，三十五磅 最重要的还有绳子（二三条每条八磅）和工具， 假如需要岩钉，则轴钉、钩环、stoppers、camming devices 和其他工具重三十至六十磅；假如不用岩钉，则需十五至三十磅。 当然，随着你的攀登，食物和水的重量会减少，虽然如此，还是有不少东西要带下来。 How do you get down? There are a number of options for the descent. There are a couple of long trails -- about 10 miles each. The most popular method, however, down the east shoulder, the East Ledges Descent. It starts with a 1/4 mile hike, but steep and treacherous, to a point where you can rappel 3 rope lengths past a stee section. From there, you continue scrambling down a steep, loose, dirty, climber's trail to the valley floor. With big packs this journey can take all day 你怎麽下来？ 下来有很多种选择。 有两条小径，差不多都十哩长； 最常见的方法，是从东边的肩部下来（East Ledges Descent）， 要先健行四分之一哩，但很陡且不安全， 到一个点你可以垂降三条绳子长度来通过峭壁， 从那里，你可以继续下攀到一个陡松垮的小径回到谷底； 背一个大背包得花一整天的时间。 ================== 张忠恕、邱子寰编译 ================== -- 犹巴 边境第一剑客 流浪於腐海深处 寻找腐海和生命的秘密 .... -- ㊣Origin:《 成大计中 BBS 站 》[bbs.ncku.edu.tw] 来源:[ocean223.na.ntu.edu.tw]