作者: zippy (山丘) 站内: MountClub 标题: [中]吉尔吉斯搜救队报告 时间: Fri Sep 15 19:09:22 2000 > 作者: etch (苍鹰) 站内: MountClub > 标题: 吉尔吉斯搜救队报告 > 时间: Fri Sep 15 08:56:52 2000 > > Description: Rescue, transportation, formalities, ritual services for > remains of Mr. Jackson (USA) and Mr. Wang (Taiwan) by the leader of > rescue team. 说明: 关於Jackson先生(美)及王先生(台)遗体的搜救,运送,丧葬典礼等说明 笔者为搜救队领队 > The accident took place in Kyrgyz Republic (CIS) on > Terskey Alatoo range (Southern side of Issyk - Kul lake) in Karakol > valley. The name of the peak is Slonenok 4726 m. ("Elephant" in > English) on August 29. According to Russian rating it was 3B, > classical route. 事件发生在八月二十九号,於吉尔吉斯共和国的Terskey Alatoo地区 (在伊息库尔湖南方)的Karakol山谷.这座山峰名为 Slonenok (4726m, 其意为'大象').在俄国的难度属於3B等级,一条典型的路线. > Information of two expedition members (UIAA) > perishing and an order for realization of rescue and transportation > works was received by "Tien Shan RTM" through morning radio connection > at 8:00 am on 31.09.00. The order was made from the expedition leader > Victor Grischenko. The same day rescue team was completed and also the > helicopter was ordered for the flight to Karakol. 两位UIAA探险队员遇难的消息在九月三十一日早上八点,由探险队领队 Victor Grischenko发出,被 '天山RTM' 接收到.当天便已组织好搜救队并订好 飞往 Karakol 的直昇机. > Until 5 P.M. there > was no permission for the flight because of weather reason. At 5 p.m. > the helicopter left airport "Manas" to bring the rescue team which > took the helicopter in the city landing at the old airport. On the way > to Issykul lake the helicopter flew round the thunder front under the > Boom valley and had to land because of weather reason in Cholpon - Ata > city. 由於天候因素,直到当天下午5点直昇机才允许出发,由 "Manas" 机场 到当地的旧机场接搜救队.往伊息库尔湖的途中,直昇机顶着雷电飞行於 'Boom' 山谷,且不得不因为天气因素降落在 'Cholpon - Ata'城. > Next morning (01.09.00) at 7:00 a.m. the helicopter left Cholpon > - Ata for Karakol city where it got additional fuel and then it took > off to Karakol valley. The first landing in Karakol valley was made at > Base Camp (the camp was located at the place under the name Kok-Bor). > After some consulting of bodies location the helicopter took the > expedition leader Mr. Grischenko and followed to the place of > accident. 次日早晨(九月一日)早上七点,直昇机离开'Cholpon - Ata'城,经'Karakol' 城并补充油料,续飞往 'Karakol' 山谷. 首次降落於 BC (位於Kok-Bor下方), 经过一些讨论并确认遗体位置後,接起探险队队长Mr. Grischenko 飞往 出事地点. > After exploration flight of Slonenok Peak the helicopter > landed on the glacier approximately 1000 meters off the place of > falling down at the altitude 3800 meters above sea level to get off > the rescue team then it flew back to the base camp. The bodies were > snowed and above the snow only part of rucksack is visible. After some > searching the bodies were found and dig off the snow. Group started to > prepare the bodies for transportation. Both of them were close to each > other wrap with ropes which were used for climbing. 在熟悉Slonenok Peak 附近地形後,直昇机降落在约坠落地点的下方 约一千公尺处(海拔3800m),让搜救队下机之後便返回基地营.遗体已 被雪覆盖止可见到部分的登山背包露出.经过片刻的搜寻,找出遗体并 挖掘出来.搜救队并开始准备遗体的运送准备.两具遗体的坠落地点 很接近且都被攀登主绳缠绕着. > The bodies of Mr. > Jackson and Mr. Wang were delivered to the the place of landing the > helicopter by drag inside of special packed bags. For landing the > helicopter on the glacier special place were prepared. In 2 hours and > 45 minutes after the set down the team the bodies were put into the > helicopter. There were made detail flied down of the mountain to find > out the exact route of ascend and falling down the mountaineers, make > some pictures and try to get the reason of falling. As we could get > from our observation of the route the group got ascend on icefall on > "Metalurg" pass (located between Slonenok and Karakolsky Peaks) and > then on the Western ridge started to ascend Slonenok peak. 杰克生先生及王先生的遗体在特制的袋子中被拖送到可供直昇机 降落地点.为了使直昇机得以降落,共花费二小时四十五分完成缓坡 及将遗体送上机的准备.我们详尽的记载出事地点且拍下他们的攀登 路线及坠落地点,试着了解何以坠落.由我们的观察可得,他们的攀登 路线由 "Metalurg" 冰瀑起攀(位於Slonenok 及 Karakolsky峰之间 ),接着 往Slonenok西棱上攀. > Approximately until the middle of the ridge there were visible fresh > footprints. Closer to the summit footprints were also visible but not > so good. Most likely those footprints belonged to another group which > took ascend the same Peak but much earlier. On the middle of the ridge > on snow-ice slope we could see two clear tracks similar to the bodies > falling. Tracks were located about 20 meters each other. Character > peculiarity of tracks were that lower track was much deeper and longer > than upper one. We can make a conclusion that the first fell down the > mountaineer who was lower and who pulled off the upper one at the > moment of falling. 大约在棱线中段之前,有留下的清楚的足迹.接近顶点处也留有一些 不甚清晰的脚印,可能是另一个早先的队伍在攀登时所留下.在棱线 中段的冰雪坡,可以见到两道清晰的类似两位受难者的坠落痕迹.两道 痕迹间距约为二十公尺.由这两道痕迹的特徵来看,位於下方的痕迹 较另一条清晰且深.我们可以由此推断首先坠落的是位於下方的队员, 接着将另一位队员一同拉下. > By landing in Bishkek the helicopter was met with > special car for transfer the bodies to morgue. > > Komissarov Vladimir. > Director > _______________________________________________ 直昇机降落在Bishkek後,由特别的车辆载送遗体至停屍间. > This message was sent by ITMC > 1A, Molodaia Gvardia Street, > Bishkek, Kirgizia, 720010, CIS > Tel. +996 312 651404, 651221 > Fax. +996 312 650747 > > E-mail: [email protected] > http://itmc.extremezone.ru > http://www.geocities.com/tienshan.geo/ > http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Slope/6009/ -- 不要用"具" -- ※ Origin: 枫桥驿站<bbs.cs.nthu.edu.tw> ◆ From: as3po5.hc.ficnet.net.tw ※ X-Info: redhair -> [email protected] ※ X-Sign: 0SSB6NOR1Bc0H2Kw3AiM (00/09/18 12:32:56 ) -- ㊣Origin:《 成大计中 BBS 站 》[bbs.ncku.edu.tw] 来源:[beethoven.ee.ncku.edu.tw]