我想聊化学合成纤维，可是不想死板板地谈这个主题；所以我决定先岔题到「Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman」（台译：任性创业 法则）。 http://www.books.com.tw/exep/prod/booksfile.php?item=0010394598 我做了50年的商人，承认这点，就像承认自己酗酒一样羞愧。 ～伊方．修纳 PATAGONIA公司创办人 　 基本上，这本书就是一路看修纳如何从小玩到大。用最少的钱发挥最大的乐趣是他年少的 目标，他的生意从制作自己的攀岩装备开始。1957年，他买了一台二手燃煤炉、一个138 磅重的铁钻和钳子、铁鎚，开始自学打铁。他当时着迷於优胜美地多处未曾被人攀过的岩 壁，因此量身订做适合的岩钉，并可以回收再用；意外吸引许多也想加入攀岩先锋的人儿 ，开始跟他订购岩钉。 我非常喜欢这个故事，结合天真冲动、理想与实践，一旦认真投注热情，兴趣跟事业将不 再是平行线。修纳的这本自传，非常真诚地表达出他经营Patagonia的思绪，也难怪连商 业类的书评，也要来锦上添花一下。 回到这本书与化纤，第38-43页讲述Capilene®是如何诞生的，若手边没有书，也可以在 官网的Company Info: Our History找到这段。摘录原文与随性翻译（仅翻译有标注底线 的内容）如下： http://www.patagonia.com/us/patagonia.go?assetid=3351&ln=79 http://outdoorgearfun.wordpress.com/2010/11/21/ Polypropylene, like pile, had some problems. It had a very low melting temperature – and customers were melting their underwear in commercial dryers, which run hotter than home dryers. Also, polypropylene is hydrophobic and repels water, so it was difficult to get thoroughly clean; it retained odors. And its wicking properties were not inherent in the fabric but a product of oils applied in the process of spinning and knitting that, after twenty washings or so, would wear off. 聚丙烯与绒布一样，也是有些问题。它的熔点很低，总是被商用烘乾机给烘融，因为这种 烘乾机的温度比家用烘乾机高出许多。此外，聚丙烯是厌水、与水相斥的；因此很难完全 清洗它，以至於会有臭味残留。且它吸湿的特性主要来自於抽纱与纺织时所添加的油剂， 大约20次清洗後，就会消失殆尽。 Improving pile was a gradual process. We worked closely with Malden to develop first a softer Bunting fabric, a synthetic boiled wool that pilled less, and eventually Synchilla®, an even softer, double-faced fabric that did not pill at all. 改善绒布是循序渐进的，我们与Malden密切合作，开发出一种较柔软的旗布，一种合成且 较少毛球的仿毛布。接者开发出Synchilla这种更加柔软的双面布料，且它完全不会起毛 球。 But our replacement for polypropylene did not come from such a mutual development process with a mill; it came from out of the blue. In 1984, while walking around the Sporting Goods show in Chicago, Chouinard saw a demonstration of polyester football jerseys being cleaned of grass stains. Polyester, like polypropylene, is made from melted plastic resins extruded through a die to create a thin, thread-like fiber. These plastic fibers are very smooth; clothing woven from them is difficult to clean because the slick fibers repel the soap and water of normal washing. 但聚丙烯的替代方案，则不是来自於这样的共同开发，而是从天而降的灵感。1984年，当 修纳在逛芝加哥运动用品展时，看到有人在示范如何清理聚酯橄榄球衣上的草渍。聚酯， 就像聚丙烯，是从熔融的塑胶树脂制成，压挤过模具後，成为细纱。这些塑胶纤维非常光 滑，因为这种滑溜的纤维与肥皂和水相斥，缝制出的衣服非常难以清洗。 Milliken, the company that made the football jerseys, had developed a process that permanently etched the surface of the fiber as it was extruded, so that the surface became hydrophilic – water loving. It wicked moisture to the outside and the treatment was permanent. Chouinard saw the fabric as perfect for underwear. And polyester had a much higher melting temperature than polypro, so it wouldn’t melt in a commercial dryer. Milliken这家制作橄榄球衣的公司，已经开发出一种制程，可以永久性地刻蚀纤维表面， 让纤维的表面产生亲水的特性，让它可以吸湿，且这种处理是永久性的。修纳认为聚酯是 缝制内衣的完美纤维，且它的熔点高於聚丙烯，不会被商用烘乾机给烘融。 In fall 1985 we shifted our entire line of polypropylene underwear to the new Capilene® polyester. It was a big risk, similar to our introduction of chocks in 1972. During the same season we also introduced the new Synchilla fleece: between them, the older products made of polypropylene and bunting had represented 70% of our sales. But our loyal core customers quickly realized the advantages of Capilene and Synchilla, and sales soared. 即使聚丙烯与绒毛布两项产品，占当时销售额的70%，1985的秋天，我们仍将整个聚丙烯 产线转换成聚酯Capilene；同时也推出新的Synchilla刷毛布。这是一个大冒险，就像 1972年首次导入新岩楔一般。但我们仍然采取行动，而核心客户也很快地了解到Capilene 和Synchilla的优点，让销量爆增。 -- 回到写这个blog的初衷，我并不想告诉大家要买什麽特定的产品，我只想分享基础知识， 让大家可以选择价格合适、符合需求的户外产品；重要的是，最大的乐趣是在於亲自投入 户外，而非身上穿了什麽。 -- 生活娱乐馆 生活, 娱乐, 心情 Traveling 旅游 Σ旅游玩乐风 → 旅游/留学 [Grosjean] bicycle-tour 旅游 ◎＊两轮下的美丽世界＊ cozzi --

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