藏青/海军蓝 (navy) 斜条纹：最实用的领带 from Permanent Style: http://goo.gl/EI3c3d （翻译不尽理想，诸多误谬之处，敬请指教！） 纯粹以逻辑的观点来看，最有用的领带是深蓝色斜条纹。然後是深咖啡色斜纹或酒红色斜 纹领带。 首先，深色的领带比一条浅色的领带更适合搭配各式服装。它比较庄重，更有商务特质， 除工作外，也能扮演好与较大胆的服装搭配的配角工作。 其次，最实用的深色就是深蓝色。和灰色和蓝色西装搭配时最为实用，深蓝色或银色领带 的多样搭配性都足以应付面试或上台报告的服装（试试传统蓝色西装搭配灰色领带，反之 亦然），也适合搭配其他的图样与颜色，如白色、粉红色、蓝色或其他颜色的衬衫和绝大 多数各种颜色的西装。 然而，深蓝在搭配大胆图样和颜色的西装或衬衫时会更好用。义大利绅士们常用一条蓝色 领带和蓝色衬衫来搭配如褐色华达呢 (gabardine)、苏格兰格纹 (glen plaid)、浅色亚麻 等比较大胆的材质，深蓝会比灰色更实穿。 再来，显着的斜条纹领带比素面更实用。它可以搭配三种不同图样的衬衫、西装和袋巾， 或是什麽图样都没有。它可以凸显衬衫图样，相当适合搭配颜色明显的细条纹西装。斜条 纹的保守朴实但多样性可以让几乎不可能搭在一起的图样和对比结合在一块。而有较大图 样的斜条纹领带，像是有俱乐部部徽纹饰的，会更实用，与衬衫或西装图样绝不冲突，不 过穿搭的场合就会有一点限制。 基於上述原因，一条深蓝色斜条纹系绝对是你能拥有的最实用领带。如果你只有一条领带 ，那就应该是深蓝斜条纹领带。 另外，英国人称斜条纹领带为"club stripe"是因为男士穿戴所属的俱乐部配色的领带，图 样通常是俱乐部部徽上的纹饰 (crest) 而非条纹 (stripe)；而在美国，斜条纹领带则被 认为是棱纹领带 (repp ties)，不过，并非意指条纹 (stripe)，而是丝绸的斜纹织造纹理 (diagonal ribbing)。（棱纹"repp"有腐败、堕落之意）。 原文：PERMANENT STYLE LONDON Navy stripe: The most useful tie From a purely logical standpoint, the most useful tie you will own is a navy- blue club stripe. Followed by a brown or burgundy in the same pattern. The first reason is that a dark tie is more versatile than a pale tie. It is more sober, more business-like and, outside of work, can play the supporting role to more adventurous clothing combinations. Second, the most useful dark colour it can be in is navy blue. As with suits, which are most practical in the base colours of grey and blue, ties in either navy blue or silver are versatile enough to produce an outfit for an interview or presentation (try the classic blue suit and grey tie, or vice versa) and to combine with other patterns and colours. Both go easily with every colour of shirt (white, pink, blue and others) and most colours of suit. Navy, however, is more practical at anchoring adventurous patterns and colours in the suit or shirt. As explained in my theory on The Italian Background, a blue tie and blue shirt is often used by gentlemen of that country to accompany daring materials, such as tan gabardine, bold glen plaids and pale linens. Navy is more useful than grey. However, as the third leg of my argument, I would argue that a tie with a bold stripe is more practical than a plain one. It can accompany three other patterns (shirt, suit, handkerchief) or none. It can rise above patterned shirts and fairly bold pinstriped suits, its strength of pattern and contrast being almost impossible to match. And it is reserved and therefore multifaceted. Some may argue that a large-pattern club tie, with crests for example, would be more practical as it will never clash with the pattern of a shirt or suit; I would argue its occasions for wear are slightly more limited. For these reasons, a navy-blue club-stripe tie is most practical tie you can own. If you only own one tie, make it this one. Of course, few men are likely to be in that position. This is a slightly pointless argument. But it amuses me and, I hope, convinces some of the importance of both navy and club stripes in a tie collection. By the way, the English call it a club stripe because men wore it in the colours of their club to denote membership. A club tie normally means one with crests rather than stripes. In the US, these ties are normally known as repp ties. This, however, does not refer to the stripe but to the diagonal ribbing (from which repp is a corruption) of the silk. --

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