作者paranoidrock (寇特妮)
看板MountainClub
标题[公告] 中岩书讨3<<BOLT INFO>>前半
时间Fri Aug 22 01:53:51 2003
1. Fall force is the force you put on a bolt.
It depends on factors as follows:
1. Fall factor
2. Static or dynamic belay
3. Rope
4. Directions
2. Cold shuts
3. Leeper Hanger Warming
Bolt: A bolt is the term used for a threaded fastener designed
to be used in conjunction with a nut.
Screw: Threaded fastener with the thread running up to the head of
the fastener; has no plain shank.
Stud: A fastener which is threaded at both ends with an unthreaded shank
in between. One end (which often has a thread tolerance which results in more thread interference) is secured into a tapped hole the other is used with a nut.
Tensile: pull-out.
Shear: straight down load.
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