图文版网志请点选以下连接 http://blog.yam.com/yipin/article/40570166 这次中东行的游记到这里就结束罗, 期待下次还可以再旅行, 有游记可以再写! --------------------------------------------------------------- one who serves as a friend or partner in something. Whether it's travel or dinner or card-playing. (夥伴: 指得是一起做某件事的朋友, 无论是旅行, 吃一顿晚餐, 或是玩牌的朋友都可以适用) This is the definition of companion in the website, vocabulary.com. Therefore, I think "companion" is the most appropriate term to be utilized as the title of this article. (以上是关於"夥伴"在网路上的定义, 所以, 我觉得用"夥伴"来当做这篇文章的主题是再适合也不过的了.) I was asked several times before this trip about how travelling alone in middle-east without the safety issue is possible. However, I still decided to travel alone because meeting different people all over the world and making friends with them are so excited. (在我到中东旅行前, 我的一些朋友曾告诉我一个人在中东旅行是不是不大可能, 然而我最终还是挡不住想去看看的欲望, 又到中东当个背包客, 因为我想要再次享受在旅途上遇见不同的朋友的开心的感觉) Syria was not in a good condition when I visited there although I didn't meet any demonstration in any cities of Syria (only a small one to support their president in Damascus). Therefore, lots of tourists were gone and avoid visiting Syria. The pro was that it's not any problems to take a picture in the tourist places, but it made me feel alone sometimes. (在我去中东旅行的时候, 2011年的夏天, 叙利亚其实是在不安全的情况, 因为政府不断的在镇压反政府的民众, 就像中国大陆的六四民运一样, 政府杀了很多人, 虽然我没有遇见抗议的人潮, 只有看到部份的军人聚集, 但我很清楚的感觉到这个国家正在有些什麽事情在发生, 绝不是平常的状态, 因此, 许多的观光客都避免拜访叙利亚, 好处是每个景点, 我都是唯一个观光客, 无论是Palmyra或是克拉克城堡, 我要照什麽古蹟都不需要等人, 因为根本没有人, 然而, 有时候我也会感到孤单) Surprisingly, I met Sherry, a Chinese lady studying in Arabics in Lattakia, the Mediterranean coastal city. She is like my interpreter with local people so we were able to talk to a family in front of Arabic castle in Palmyra. (令我惊讶的是, 我在Palmyra遇到了Sherry, Sherry是一个在叙利亚滨海大城Lattakia学阿拉伯文的中国女孩, 她就像一个翻译一样, 拉近了我和当地的叙利亚人的距离) (我在Palmyra遇到两个家族一起出游, 他们彼此是亲戚, 一个家族从Homs到Palmyra拜访另一个家族, 小孩们看到我跟Sherry就很有趣, 一个十二岁的小男生一直来跟我讲话, 问我叫什麽名字, 家里有几个人, 想看我家人的照片, 对我那台破相机很有兴趣, 想要跟我换他身上有的东西(我是很想赶快把那台破相机出清, 不过现在这趟中东旅行才刚开始几天叫我就把相机扔了那也太夸张), 最有趣是其中一个女孩子, 十八岁, 头上围着头巾(叙利亚的伊斯兰女生十二岁之後就要开始围头巾), 一直想来跟我讲话, 她跟她的女生朋友看到我一直猜我是几岁, (後来才知道叙利亚女生通常不能随便跟男生讲话, 尤其是外国人, 但今天是因为我跟Sherry一起, 他们认为我和Sherry算是一家人, 所以那个女生的爸爸说可以让女生来跟我讲话), Sherry会讲一点阿拉伯文, 我嘛, 完全不会讲, 只会讲一些打招呼的话和"哈逼逼"(就是阿拉伯文的"亲爱的")亲爱的(Habibi), 我对那些女生就说一句哈逼逼, 结果那些女生居然脸红了, 一直呵呵笑个不停, 其中那个十八岁的女生居然在我面前做出套戒指的动作, 听Sherry说她一直用阿拉伯问说想跟我结婚之类的, 後来女生的爸爸来了, Sherry问她说那个女生可以跟我结婚吗, 女生的爸爸说, 不行, 因为我不是穆斯林, 听完我都笑出来了, 因为如果要是我是穆斯林怎麽办, Sherry说女生的爸爸说也要同一个教派的穆斯林才能结婚(什叶派的就不跟逊尼派的结婚), 我笑着说那也实在太困难, 难怪这里的男女结婚都是相亲父母安排好的 Sherry告诉我说, 她住在Lattakia, 有一次她去买蜂蜜, 那个卖蜂蜜的人是念法律系毕业的(这代表我毕业也可以去卖鸡排就是了), 卖蜂蜜的人居然跟她讲说: 小姐, 你一定要买我的蜂蜜, 为什麽呢, 因为可兰经里说, 不加糖的蜂蜜对身体很健康, 我的蜂蜜都不加糖的, 你一定要来买一瓶, 那对身体一定很健康, 我想说的是, 可兰经也管太多了, 连蜂蜜加不加糖都管, 如果有人跟我说圣经说吃绿藻可以排便顺畅(我妈每次都叫我吃绿藻, 健康食品的一种), 我想我可能会先问那个人是圣经里那部书第几章第几节吧. 真是有趣.) We also travelled together to Krak de Chavelier (Crusader Castle) (我和Sherry也一起去了克拉克城堡旅行) Then, I went to Lebanon. I was accidentally assigned in a dorm due to the delay of arriving at Beirut. I met Xiaobei and Salim. Both of them are my roommate in hostel. Xiaobei is from China and currently studying in Architecture for her master degree in Syracuse University. We have similar experience living in upstate New York although I am not sure they are good or bad experience, haha. (I personally don't like upstate New York at all. It's a boring place.) (然後我去了黎巴嫩, 因为我太晚抵达贝鲁特,我原本订的单人房被别人住去, 我被安排要住Dorm. 但也因为这样的阴错阳差, 我认识了大陆来的少白和法国人Salim. Salim和少白都是我在Hostel的室友, 少白正在Syracuse University念建筑硕士, 因为Syracuse University和Cornell只有一个半小时的车程, 都在Upstate New York, 和她聊起在Upstate New York生活的甘苦, 真的很有趣 ) (Xiaobei and I) (我和少白) Then, Xiaobei and I traveled together to Byblos and Baalbeck. She is an exactly backpacker. What I mean is she would like to travel like local people such as using public transportation though communicating with people in the language, which she is not familiar with, is challenging for her. Thus, she is a brave girl. Travelling with her is a great experience because of her extensive knowledge in the field of architectonics. (少白和我一起去Byblos和巴贝克旅行, 她真的是一个身体力行的背包客, 我的意思是, 她一定要搭大众运输工具往返景点, 即使她不会阿拉伯文, 而且她很有毅力一定要前往叙利亚旅行, 这些事都让我觉得她是一个很勇敢的女生, 另外, 她的建筑专业在我们逛不同的景点的时候, 让我增加了很多建筑的常识) (Xiaobei in Byblos) (我帮少白在Byblos的罗马小剧场照的照片) Salim is a French but his father is from Morocco. When I met him at hostel, I was asked by him to guess where his father is from. I can only have little bit ideas to guess and just thought that country might be in middle-east. We talked a lot about what we felt in Lebanon. Unfortunately, both of us didn't like Lebanon based on the first impression of Beirut, lots of vehicles with famous brand such as Benz, BMW, etc. I totally agree that Lebanon is not a good place to understand what the middle-east country generally looks like. Thus, he strongly suggests me to visit Morocco or Turkey and describe how wonderful both countries are. I think I definitely will visit both countries in the future. (Salim是一个法国人, 但是他的母亲是法国人, 父亲却是从摩洛哥来的, 所以他会许多的语言, 当我第一次在Hostel遇到他时, 他要我猜猜看他的父亲是从那里来的, 根据他的长相我只能猜他有中东的血统. 我们聊了很多彼此对黎巴嫩的感觉, 我们都不喜欢黎巴嫩, 因为黎巴嫩, 尤其是首都贝鲁特, 到处可以见到名车: BenZ或是BMW. 我们猜测这可能是人们想要表现他们多金的一种方式吧, 他强烈的建议我去摩洛哥, 或是他现在工作的国家: 土耳其玩, 我想我一定有一天会去这两个国家的) Mohammed is my driver when I was in Jordan. He was recommended by lots of people in the Taiwanese traveller website, backpackers.com.tw. My experience was HE IS EXCELLENT! He showed me where the cheaper store was in order to buy some food and water to avoid the ripped off in the beach of Dead sea. Then, he showed me a place to enjoy swimming in the Dead sea WITH NO FEE though I think lady might feel embarrassed to swim in that place. Then, he knew I prefer to take bus to Petra, he went to the bus station with me to help me asking the price and schedule of the bus to Petra. Besides, he also keep reminding me how to go to bus station from my hotel. He is the most helpful driver I have seen in my travelling experience. (Mohammed是我在约旦的Driver, 会特别介绍我的Driver是因为他是我遇过最好的driver了, 会知道这个Driver是从背包客栈的网站找到的, 我必须说: He is Excellent!, 他提醒我在死海, 食物和饮水都会很贵, 所以他先带我去一个当地人去买东西的杂货店买齐了我要买的东西, 接着带我去一个免费的死海飘浮的地方, 在那里我遇到了不少约旦人, 才知道约旦人自己是不大去给观光客的要收高价的死海海滨, 接着我告诉Mohammed我准备要去佩特拉, 但是想要搭公车去, 一般不好的驾驶就会骗我没有公车可以到, 或是有些驾驶就变得对我冷淡了, 但Mohammed居然开车载我到Bus Station, 让我确定隔天是不是有车, 在我买了车票之後, 他不断的提醒我要如何才能到车站, 一直跟我说不要走错路, 如果搭计程车是多少钱才合理, 他还带我去找了他的朋友聊天, 待在安曼的晚上真的很有趣) In Jerusalem, I stayed in a church so I met lots of pilgrims from all over the world. Since all of us were counted as pilgrims, most of us were Christians. I met Silvia, an Italian and also a Catholics. She told me she is not like a usual Italian because Italians always travel with their family. She is also an lady with abundant of perseverance. For example, it was extremely hot in Jericho when we were there (probably 42C around 108F), but she still walked and took a look for the ruin of the old Jericho town. I cannot tolerate such a hot weather but she did it. Both of us were fat in the following picture although we are thin. (I think that might be the issue of my camera). (在耶路撒冷, 我住在苦路第一站旁边的一间教堂里, 遇到了好多的朝圣者, 基督徒, Silvia就是其中一个, 她从义大利来以色列朝圣, 不像一般的义大利人都是家族旅行, Silvia也是一个人旅行的背包客, 我们一起参加同一个Tour, 去马撒达和耶里哥的Tour, 在耶里哥的时候, 她居然在摄氏42度的大太阳下逛完整个耶里哥古城, 她真是一个非常有毅力的人, 我已经在美国待很久, 变的很怕热, 大太阳一来就不想出去逛了, 底下这张照片就是我和Silvia合照, 我们看起来都很胖, 我想可能是相机坏了吧) Then, this picture looks better since we are slim. Haha (这张用她的相机照出来的照片就正常多了, 看来真的是相机的问题, 哈哈) In the contrast to Italian, German usually travels alone. I met lots of Germans in Israel no matter in the place I stayed or in the tour I joined. There was a German lady sitting next to me in the tour to Masada. She was funny and smart. Masada is a place located on a hill in the center of desert close to Dead Sea. It was very hot there on June. The AC of the tour-bus we took was broken, and there were more than 30 people on the bus (I think the bus became a sauna room!). The AC couldn't be fixed since it was a low-cost tour (I guess). Both German lady and I just complained with each other about the broken AC, but I didn't do anything after that. However, the driver distributed some ice water after we visited Masada. Then, the German lady told me that she finally complained this to the driver and asks for refunding so the driver gave us the ice water. I think that the difference of our responses to this issue might be due to the culture difference, and her strategy was right! (相对於义大利人, 我就可以常常见到一个人旅行的德国人, 无论是在我住的地方, 或是参加的Tour, 我都可以遇到很多的德国人, 有一个我忘记名字的德国女生, 在我们去马撒达Tour的时候坐在我的旁边, 她是一个很聪明而且有趣的人, 马撒达是一个在沙漠之中的一座小山丘, 要到达马撒达除了搭贵松松的缆车之外, 就是用双脚步行爬山了, 在逛完马撒达之後回到车上, 我们都很热, 但是密闭的车子里的冷气却坏掉了, 我想可能是因为我参加的这个Tour太便宜了吧, 我和那个德国女生都在抱怨冷气坏掉的事, 但是我并没有再做其他的反应, 不久之後, 司机居然发给我们一人一瓶冰水, 德国女生事後告诉我她最後跟司机说因为冷气坏掉了可以给我们Refund吗? 没想道司机居然买了水请我们喝, 我想她的策略是对的吧) (The smart German lady and I in the cable car to Masada) (聪明的德国女生和我) Another interesting person is John (actually his name should be Jorn in German). He is from Germany, and we are roommate in the dorm of the church. He has been to Israel so many times so he rented a vehicle and drove by himself. His travelling experience was amazing so we sometimes talked on the beautiful terrace of the church after dinner. In addition, thanks for a ride offered by him to Tel Aviv airport, and it saved me lots of time transferring by bus. (另一个我在以色列认识的朋友是同住一个Dorm的德国人John, 他已经来过以色列很多次了, 对这地方很熟的他, 这次来就自己租了台车到处玩, 教堂的顶楼有一个露天的小阳台, 每天晚餐後, Silvia或是John就会来阳台, 大家一起来聊天. 最後要谢谢John给我一个ride, 让我顺利的从耶路撒冷到台拉维夫的机场搭飞机) Marcelo, the husband of the Brazilian couple I met in the Nazareth and Galilee tour, was a funny guy. Like my other Brazilian friends, he was also friendly and warm. He also came to read my blog and asked me to translate them in English. Actually, I am better to describe things in Chinese than English so l will try to translate! Then, these articles in English version can be shown here. Here is the picture I took for him when we went to the Jordan River and he wanted to be baptized again. It was a real "Baptism" in the river. (我在纳匝肋和加里勒亚的Tour里遇到了一对巴西夫妇, 那个先生的名字叫Marcelo, Marcelo是一个很有趣的人, 他跟其他的巴西人一样, 非常的友善且待人温暖, 事实上我会有把blog文章翻成英文的打算就是因为他, 他很想看我blog上的英文, 我们到了约旦河的受洗地的时候, Marcelo打算要再受洗一次, 底下这张照片是我帮他照的照片) (这张则是我和他们夫妇的合照, 背景就是美丽的加里勒亚海, 海的对面就是戈兰高地了) In Cairo, I stayed in a hostel managed by a Japanese couple (The wife is Japanese and the husband is Egyptian) because the hotel managed by Japanese usually has good reputation for the clean room and environment. I was surprised that how many Japanese backpackers were in that hostel. It seemed that I was the only non-Japanese in that hostel. Everyone including the Egyptian managers there could speak Japanese. It seemed I am the only person who was neither Japanese nor a Japanese-speaking foreigner. I felt awkward originally. However, there was also a little terrace in that hostel, and some Japanese like to sit there to talk to each other. Interestingly, some Japanese there started to speak Japanese with me (I thought they thought I am a Japanese). After they noticed I am not a Japanese but Taiwanese, they spoke English with me. A Japanese girl told me that she has been to Taiwan and liked Taiwanese food in night market. Another Japanese couple kept telling me that how they appreciated Taiwanese because Taiwanese donated a surprisingly number of money to reconstruct the area ruined by Tsunami on this March. They'd like to ask me to say thank you to all generous Taiwanese! (在开罗, 因为想要找一个乾净的环境, 我住在一个日本人经营的旅馆(先生埃及人, 老婆是日本人). 令我惊讶的是, 整间旅馆都是日本人, 每个人都会讲日文, 连旅馆的老板都用日文跟房客交谈, 我似乎是唯一不会讲日文的外国人, 我感到非常奇怪, 这个旅馆有一个小阳台让大家可以在那里聊天, 我带着我的电脑到那边写游记, 突然就有两个人日本人跟我讲日文, 我表明了是台湾人而且不会讲日文之後, 他们居然开始不断的跟我聊台湾事情, 一直跟我说台湾是一个很不错的地方, 他们有去过台湾, 台湾的夜市小吃很好吃又便宜之类的. 我又遇到了一对年轻的日本夫妻, 那个先生知道我是台湾人之後, 不断的用日文跟我道谢, 因为在日本三月发生大地震的时候, 台湾是所有外国的国家里捐最多钱的, 他们非常感谢慷慨又很温暖的台湾热情, 几个在场的日本人听到了都说他们以後一定要来台湾玩, 报答台湾人对日本人的帮助! ) Yumi, the Japanese girl from Ikebukuro in Tokyo, was also there. She was very excited to tell me how she felt about Taiwanese by her limited English. She always said "Taiwanese, Good, Taiwanese are Japanese's friend." This was her second or third time visiting Egypt. She told me she visited Turkey and Jordan and, then, came to Egypt. I was so happy to meet a Japanese backpacker like me so we went to Pyramid together. (由美, 是一个我遇到从东京池袋来的女生, 她很高兴的用英文跟我说她对台湾人的感觉, 她不断的告诉我台湾很好, 台湾人是日本人的朋友, 这是她第二或是第三次来埃及玩, 於是我们约好了隔天一起去金字塔玩) (Yumi in front of the stepped pyramid in Dahshur) (由美在Dahshur的阶梯金字塔的照片) Unfortunately, Yumi was harassed when we were in stepped pyramid. By asking Yumi to take a picture with him, An Egyptian guy touched and held Yumi. She was scared and wanted to ask someone to help her. Then, I tried to talk to that Egyptian guy to keep him away from Yumi. This is an example to let us know that a single female traveller should be very careful when travelling in middle-east. Anyway, I think the reason why a single female lady is able to be harassed easily in middle-east is that those guys doesn't know how to deal with ladies due to the conserved religious issue. (跟由美一起出去旅行是一件不错的事情, 因为她帮我挡了很多小贩, 而我则是帮她挡了很多埃及男生的骚扰. 事实上, 在埃及, 一个单身女生独自旅行是不大方便的, 因为很容易会被埃及的男生骚扰. 由美和我一起在Dahshur的阶梯金字塔的时候, 遇到了一个男的小贩, 一直说要帮由美照相, 於是我很勉强的帮她们照了一张, 没想到那个男小贩居然抱住由美, 由美吓到面无表情, 我立刻冲上前去把那个男生推开, 叫那个男生不要碰我的女朋友(虽然这是个谎言, 但有时还蛮有用的), 我觉得, 埃及的男生之所以会对外国女生有一些逾矩的举动, 可能是因为他们的宗教: 伊斯兰将男女很严格的分开, 导致他们不知道要如何跟女生应对.) Then, I was heading to south Egypt including Aswan and Luxor. I stayed in a hostel with great reputations in Luxor. Therefore, I still met lots of backpackers though the situation in Egypt was not good. All of us including Will and Jamie, two college students from UK, Emily, a Taiwanese studying in UK, and her cousins, from Taiwan, Lara, a Brazilian visiting scholar in UK, and Makiko, a Japanese lady, took felucca on the Nile river together. Since Lara noticed my shirt with Portuguese, she was so excited and asked me to take a picture with all of us. (然後, 我来到了埃及南部的亚斯文和路克索. 在路克索, 我住在一间在网路上相当有名的一家背包客的旅馆, 因此, 我遇到了非常多世界各地来的背包客, 包括在英国念大学的英国人Will 和Jamie, 在英国念硕士班的台湾人Emily, 及她的表弟表妹, 在英国做交换学生的巴西女生Lara, 及日本女孩麻由子(Makiko). 我们一起坐了尼罗河最有名的交通工具: 风帆船. Lara注意到我穿了一件有葡萄牙文的巴西T-shirt (这件T-shirt是我巴西的朋友Maria送我的她任教的学校的纪念T-shirt), 於是Lara说一定要叫大家跟我合照一张, 然後特别要指指我的衣服, 底下这张图从左到右就是Jamie, Will, Makiko, 我, Lara, Emily) Then, she also took a picture with me. (然後Lara又和我合照一张) Makiko enjoyed the felucca trip very much and also asked to take a picture with at this afternoon. (这个就是Makiko, 她告诉我她好喜欢搭风帆船的感觉) Makiko and I also went to west bank of Nile to visit some ancient Egyptian temple and tombs including Hatshepsut temple (Makiko和我之後又一起去了尼罗河西岸的埃及古老神庙和古墓参观, 包括了下面这些在Hatshepsut神庙拍的照片) On the other hand, Emily and her cousins went to Luxor temple with me, and we enjoyed an amazing evening there. (我和Emily及Emily的表弟表妹也在晚上一起去了路克索神庙, 晚上的路克索神庙真是很美丽) Meeting with people is an exciting thing. Although I don't even know when we will meet in the future, it can still transform what you feel in a place. Those companions were great and made me to memorize the incredible Middle-East forever. (在旅行当中遇见许多不同的人是一件非常令人开心的事情, 他们也许只是过客, 但却会因为短暂的相处, 让我对当地的记忆, 永远会是那麽地鲜明, 那麽地精采) --

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