网志版: http://aa10504.blogspot.tw/2016/02/slubnep-heddels.html 前言: 嗨各位版友大家好 我又来了XD 其实我一开始真正想要翻的是今天这篇 因为就是这篇的这两个单字(slub & nep) 促使我开始去国外网站看丹宁资讯 也开始对丹宁这种布料了解的越来越多 爱的越来越深 在开始今天的翻译文之前 有一首诗要先请大家欣赏一下: 《寄高员外》 “冷冽苍黄风似劈，雪骨冰筋满瑶席。 庭松流污相抵吃，霜絮重裘火无力。 孤峯地炉烧白枥，庞眉道者应相忆。 倏忽维阳岁云暮，寂寥不觉成章句。 惟应将寄蕊珠宫，禅刹云深一来否。” 前蜀 贯休 本文： Knowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and Nep 了解你的原色丹宁：竹节感和霜絮感 SEP 9, 2013 |101 PRIMERS |by Dennis DePrimo 6 Comments When it comes to the realm of raw denim, two of the most pertinent, yet often misunderstood, characteristics are nep and slub. 在原色丹宁的领域里，有两个很类似、经常混淆的特色，就是霜絮感（nep）和竹节感（ slub）。 Though these terms may seem like silly, redundant jargon, we can’t stress enough the importance of these denim traits. Not only do they affect the feel and texture of raw jeans, but they also impact the overall fade and evolution of any pair of denim. 虽然这两个词听起来很无聊，很像专家故意说的一些专业术语，但不得不说这两个特色在 原色丹宁领域里非常的重要。它们不只影响了原色牛仔裤的质感，也会影响整件牛仔裤的 色落演变。 Slub 竹节感 http://imgur.com/OH8tRAs Close up of a raw slub denim 竹节丹宁的特写 We’ve previously broken down the meanings of slub and slubiness, but in essence slub refers to denim fabric made with indigo warp yarn which differs in thickness throughout. When the denim is woven and made into garments, the result will be a denim without a uniform texture which will have a much different hand than a denim woven with traditional yarns. 我们先前已经在《竹节感和竹节布料的意思》这篇文章里解析过这个词了，竹节布料，事 实上是因为丹宁布料的indigo色经纱粗细不同而造成的。使用这种布料制做出来的丹宁服 饰，手感上会和使用传统纱线做出来单宁服饰有很大的差异。 In some slubby denims, a technique called loom chatter is employed during the weaving process to help make the finished fabric even more textured. The layman’s explanation of loom chatter is that the shuttle looms that are used to weave the fabric are set to a low tension level while they weave. 在制作竹节丹宁布料的编织过程里，应用了一种称作loom chatter的技巧，来使布料的纹 理更丰富。用比较通俗的解释来说，loom chatter就是指梭织机用比较低的张力强度在纺 织布料。 This lower tension setting makes the looms literally shake while they weave the denim – an action which, in addition to the naturally uneven nature of the yarn used to weave the denim, makes the product even more uneven and textured. 织布机的张力设定得愈低，从字面上来看就表示它们在纺织时震动的愈厉害－除了直接使 用粗细不均匀的纱线去编织丹宁，会有纹理感之外；低张力设定，震动织布机这个行为， 会编织出更有颗粒感和丰富纹理的丹宁布。 As a picture says a thousand words, this detailed look at a pair of Naked and Famous‘ Big Slub Jeans is a classic example of some fantastic slub fades. 照片自己会说故事，这里有一个经典的例子，是一张Naked and Famous的大竹节牛仔裤的 超赞色落照片，可以从这件照片里，看到上述的细节。 http://imgur.com/W4CaQjh Faded Naked and Famous Big Slub Jeans Naked and Famous的大竹节牛仔裤色落照 http://imgur.com/pHTJVRw Slub fading detail on Naked and Famous Big Slub Jeans Naked and Famous的大竹节牛仔裤的色落细节 http://imgur.com/iBboFjR Alternate Close up of Naked and Famous Big Slub Jeans Naked and Famous的大竹节牛仔裤特写 http://imgur.com/da2iSOD Selvedge fade on Naked and Famous Big Slub jeans Naked and Famous的大竹节牛仔裤的布边色落 Slub will be quite textured and is able to either posses a softer or rougher feel, depending on the actual cotton used, than most raw denims. Aside from the difference in texture that slubby denim is noted for, its irregularity in yarn thickness also tends to result in more interesting fades. 竹节丹宁的纹理感相当丰富，而且依据使用的棉质，它可以比大部分的原色丹宁，更能同 时兼具柔软及颗粒感。除了竹节丹宁那种特殊的纹理值得注意之外，他不规则的纱线粗度 也会养出非常有趣的色落。 Specifically, these fades tend to run more vertically along the fabric than horizontally. The reason behind the unusual fading characteristics in slub denim is very interesting as the vertical fading occurs because the indigo dyes tend to fade at different rates based on the varying thickness of the yarn used to produce the denim. This vertical fading characteristic is also known as Tate-Ochi, or “vertical falls”, in Japanese. 准确地来说，这种布料会产生更多的纵向色落。竹节丹宁会有这种不常见的色落，背後的 原因非常有趣，是因为在生产丹宁布料时，纱线不均匀的粗细的变化导致indigo色落速率 的不一致，所以就产生了纵落。 Nep 霜絮感 Nep has often been confused with slub because of the textural characteristics that they both share. However, the difference between the two often needs to be very clearly defined. Have you ever stumbled upon a pair of jeans that seemed to have little particles of white fluff protruding from the main part of the garment? It may have looked a little bit like below. 霜絮感和竹节感两者常常会被搞混，因为他们拥有差不多的纹理特色。但是这两者之间的 差异是需要被明确的定义的。你有没有曾经偶然的发现，你的某件牛仔裤，上面有一点一 点小小的白色棉点凸出来？看起来可能有点像下面这张照片。 http://imgur.com/iDI7chm Close up on horizontal and vertical nep fades. 横向和纵向的霜絮色落特写 When a garment is neppy, or has nep, it usually just means that the fabric of the garment has been woven in a way that some of the cotton fibers extend and protrude from the main surface. Usually these fabrics tend to posses a “snowy ” look, as if fresh fallen snow is sitting on the surface of the denim. The texture in this type of denim will be more noticeable on the surface of the fabric than the peeking glimpses of white in the composition of a slubby fabric. 当我们说一件服饰是霜絮感的，或他充满霜絮，其实就是指它的布料上有一些棉纤维凸出 表面。通常这种布料看起来像“雪花”一般，就像有刚降下的雪，落在这件丹宁上一样。 这类型的纹理，比起偶然才会瞄见的竹节感更显眼。 Nep denim also possesses some peculiar traits throughout life of the fabric. It still fades naturally like most raw denim, but the neppy fibers will become more pronounced in the appearance of the jean; bringing about a furrier look. One of the most desirable features of a nep denim is their uncanny ability to fade horizontal, as well as vertically like the snowy nep denim below. 霜絮丹宁布料也有一些奇异的特点。像是它和其他原色丹宁一样都会色落，但随着色落愈 来愈强，布料上的霜絮会愈来愈明显，使表面看起来更毛茸茸。另一个更吸引人的特色是 ，这种丹宁布除了会产生纵向的色落外，它还会产生神秘的横向色落，就像下面这张照片 一样。 http://imgur.com/OkL80Gj Snowy Nep Whiskers 雪花般的霜絮丹宁猫须 Loom chatter also plays a role in the production of nep denim. As noted neppy denim usually has visible fibers exposed from the main surface of the fabric; fibers which are usually knots and broken fibers within the yarn that occur as it is spun and then woven. Loom chatter exacerbates the nepping process by further agitating the fibers and leaving them more exposed through the shaking and tangling of the yarn while the loom weaves. Loom chatter这个技巧也会产生霜絮感丹宁。就像前面所提到的，霜絮丹宁上有一些肉眼 可见的纤维暴露在表面；那些纤维在纺纱和纺织的过程中，会破坏纱线里面的纤维，或使 纱线里面的纤维打结。当织布机在纺织时，Loom chatter这个技巧因为会震动、缠绕纱线 ，使搅动纤维的幅度变大，让纤维更暴露，加剧了霜絮感的产生。 附上原文连结： http://goo.gl/cQcsp7 本文结束 後记： 大概有三点想要在後记补充 1.内文里提到一个词叫Loom chatter，我不知道该怎麽翻译它，其实我连这个技巧是啥 都不太清楚，将来希望有高手版友可以帮忙补充。 2.为什麽开头要请大家欣赏那首诗呢？其实是因为这篇文章里提到的”nep”这个单字， 在台湾丹宁界似乎没有一个正式的翻译，而我想了非常久（这篇文章我好几个月前就看过 了），一直在思索有没有更棒的翻译。目前网路上只看到有人用「棉絮感」来形容这种裤 子，而在那篇文章里nep这个单字依然没有被翻译出来，它依旧保持英文状态，所以我在 灵光一闪的情况下，想到了这种白色点状棉絮附着在牛仔裤上，就好像牛仔裤结霜了一样 ，因此我融合了那篇文章形容的棉絮感，成了霜絮这个词。又刚好发现真的有诗人用过霜 絮这个词来写诗，诗里霜絮的意思是「白棉絮」，这样的巧合加上意象的符合，最後我决 定把nep denim的翻译翻成霜絮丹宁。 3.那为什麽slub会翻作竹节呢？这个就不是我自创的啦，这个词已经被广为使用了，甚 至有一种东西就叫竹节纱，金斯大也曾经在部落格里介绍过竹节质感的商品喔！ --

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