Pierpaolo Piccioli Is Balenciaga’s New Creative Director https://reurl.cc/xN4RA4 The seasoned Italian designer starts on July 10 and is to present his first designs in October during Paris Fashion Week. By Miles Socha Seasoned Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is the new creative director of Balenciaga, effective July 10, with his first collection to be unveiled in October during Paris Fashion Week. He succeeds Demna, the edgy Georgian designer who made the French house a byword for hefty sneakers, drop-shoulder hoodies, and dystopian cool over an acclaimed 10-year tenure that also reshaped the boundaries of luxury. Last March, Balenciaga parent Kering appointed Demna the new artistic director of its cash-cow property Gucci, tasked with jolting the Italian fashion house out of its doldrums. Piccioli, who spent most of his fashion career plying romance, glamor and couture grandeur at Valentino, arrives at a global brand with a fleet of raw, concrete stores, a business split evenly between women’s and men’s, and a recent reputation for hype and provocation. Due to Demna’s underground proclivities, the brand became famous within streetwear circles, prized for its oversized tailoring, bulky footwear, slogan knits and distressed jeans. In more recent years the house charted an upscaling drive by bringing back haute couture, signing a fleet of A-list actresses including Nicole Kidman, Michelle Yeoh and Isabelle Huppert, and introducing a range of status handbags, including the Le Cagole, Rodeo and Bel Air models. To be sure, Balenciaga has flirted with a variety of fashion directions under its previous creative directors, which included Josephus Thimister, Alexander Wang, and Nicolas Ghesqui锇e, who leaned into an experimental and at times futuristic approach that catapulted the house back into fashion’s big leagues. Piccioli, 57, has been sitting on fashion’s sidelines since he parted ways with Valentino in March 2024, having worked at the Roman house for 25 years, and sharing the creative director role jointly with Maria Grazia Chiuri from 2008 to 2016. He started his fashion career with a 10-year stint at Fendi, also working there alongside Chiuri. Citing sources, WWD reported that Piccioli could be next in line at Balenciaga as far back as March 2024. It is understood the Rome-born designer also held discussions with Fendi, while maintaining close ties to Valentino owner Mayhoola, which also controls Balmain and Walter Albini. A beloved figure on the international fashion scene, Piccioli is prized for daring volumes and colors, particularly for haute couture, and for widening the Valentino esthetic beyond its jet-set image of yore to embrace younger and more diverse audiences. On Monday, he shared a letter reflecting on how Crist鏏al Balenciaga has been a touchstone throughout his career, mentioning that the first picture he ever uploaded on his personal Instagram page was a 1967 wedding ensemble by the Spanish master. “Simplicity is a solved complexity,” he wrote underneath the image, posted in 2018. “Crist鏏al Balenciaga’s legacy and archive is probably one of the most influential fashion statements of all time,” he wrote. “He has done everything before everyone; he has literally invented the culture of creativity; he has infused the idea of couture in every aspect of his career, and he has shown, through his creations, the power of evolution and innovation.” That said, Piccioli made clear he also plans to build on what the brand’s more recent creative leaders constructed. “Balenciaga is what it is today thanks to all the people who have paved the way. Crist鏏al, Nicolas, Alex, Demna,” he wrote, “In all its phases, while constantly evolving and changing, it has never lost track of the house’s aesthetic values.” Piccioli’s arrival at Balenciaga, the day after Demna presents his swan song couture collection for the house, adds yet another hotly anticipated debut to the fashion calendar, with Gucci, Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Loewe, Versace, Jil Sander and Jean Paul Gaultier among houses unveiling collections by new creative directors this fall. In a brief announcement issued Monday evening in Paris, Kering said Piccioli would “bring his unique creative vision and extensive experience to Balenciaga, building on the strengths and success achieved by the brand over the past decade under Demna’s creative direction, and in continuity with the legacy of Crist鏏al Balenciaga and of the historic Parisian house.” Commenting on the appointment, Francesca Bellettini, Kering’s deputy chief executive officer in charge of brand development, called Piccioli “one of the most talented and celebrated designers of today.” “His mastery of haute couture, his creative voice, and his passion for savoir-faire made him the ideal choice for the house,” she said, also thanking Demna for “the bold, distinctive vision he brought to Balenciaga over the past 10 years, shaping the house’s identity in the contemporary era. ” Gianfranco Gianangeli, who was been CEO at the brand since last January, said he was “excited to begin this new era at Balenciaga with Pierpaolo. His creative vision will thrive, and he will perfectly interpret the legacy of Crist鏏al Balenciaga, building on the house’s bold creativity, rich heritage and strong culture. With the expertise of our teams and the dynamic creative energy that has historically driven Balenciaga, I look forward to what we will build together.” Bellettini added her vote of confidence, saying, “I am convinced that Pierpaolo and Gianfranco will lead Balenciaga perfectly through this important new chapter of its remarkable history.” Basque fashion designer Crist鏏al Balenciaga first set up his fashion business with a boutique in San Sebasti嫕, Spain, in 1919, ultimately opening his couture house in Paris in 1937 on the Avenue George V. Oscar de la Renta, Pierre Cardin and Emanuel Ungaro were among those who worked in his atelier, which had a reputation for uncompromising standards and an architectural approach to cutting. Among the founder’s most famous creations were the cocoon coat, balloon skirt and sack dress. Balenciaga closed his house in 1968 and died in 1972. Piccioli certainly winked to the designer’s sculptural constructions when he designed a one-off collection of down creations for Moncler in 2018. Balenciaga remained dormant until 1986, when beauty firm Jacques Bogart SA acquired the intellectual property and resumed operations, including licensing. Fashions were initially created by Michel Goma, then Thimister, and then Ghesqui锇e from 1997 to 2012. Kering does not break down revenues for Balenciaga, lumping it in with “ other houses” including McQueen, Pomellato and Brioni. Revenues at “other houses” declined 11 percent in the first quarter of 2025, though Kering trumpeted a “very solid” performance of Balenciaga’s leather goods. The brand has been consistently expanding its retail network, ending 2024 with a tally of 271 stores. Market sources estimate the brand’s revenues are north of 2 billion euros. Balenciaga is said to be preparing fragrances to be introduced in 2025 under Kering Beaut In his letter, Piccioli said he sees in Balenciaga “a brand full of possibilities that is incredibly fascinating. “I must first and foremost thank Demna; I’ve always admired his talent and vision,” Piccioli wrote. “I couldn’t ask for a better passing of the torch. He paid homage to Crist鏏al in his own way, sharing his point of view while maintaining the house’s core identity alive. This gives me the chance to shape a new version of the maison, adding another chapter with a new story. ” He expressed gratitude for “the trust that [Kering chairman and CEO Franois-Henri Pinault], Francesca and Gianfranco are giving me. We were effortlessly on the same page from the start, and that is the best way to start something new.” It is understood Piccioli will relocate to Paris to dedicate himself to the house. - 开云集团把创意十足的Demna抓去古驰救火 然後请PP回来重塑巴黎世家的传统形象 有趣 --

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