作者LOLIVA (萝莉(  ̄ c ̄)y▂ξ)
看板BeautySalon
标题Re: [转录]Re: [心得] 很刺激皮肤的"保养"行为
时间Thu Feb 12 13:56:00 2009
k大恕删喔~
嗯~忙完写paper的工作後 刚刚就把k大文中的ref.部分补充上来~
主要是补充摘要啦..
因为不是每间学校都有订阅期刊 也不是每个版友都像我闲闲没事做 可以查期刊~
希望有空版友别辜负k大的一番热血~可以稍微看一下原文喔..:)
在搜寻期刊的过程中找到一个不错的网站:
http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/mksg/srt/2002/00000008/00000001
有空可以多看看里面的topic 相信会收获不少才是^^
ps:对了,其中第四篇私认为似乎比较偏向建立侦测发炎的皮肤的方法耶
(太阳曝晒或使用SLS) 第三篇也是方法~
第五篇与第一篇大夥可以瞧瞧 我想应该多少可以了解k大和宝拉提及的事情...
1. "Cell Proliferation,volume 37, issue 3, June 2004, page 221"
http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/cgi-bin/fulltext/118794300/PDFSTART
摘要:
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) oil, chiefly composed of linalyl acetate
(51%) and linalool (35%), is considered to be one of the mildest of known
plant essential oils and has a history in wound healing. Concerns are
building about the potential for irritant or allergenic skin reactions
with the use of lavender oil. This study has demonstrated that lavender
oil is cytotoxic to human skin cells in vitro (endothelial cells and
fibroblasts) at a concentration of 0.25% (v/v) in all cell types tested
(HMEC-1,HNDF and 153BR). The major components of the oil, linalyl acetate
and linalool, were also assayed under similar conditions for their
cytotoxicity. The activity of linalool reflected that of the whole oil,
indicating that linalool may be the active component of lavender oil.
Linalyl acetate cytotoxicity was higher than that of the oil itself,
suggesting suppression of its activity by an unknown factor in the oil.
Membrane damage is proposed as the possible mechanism of action.
2.有此一说:(k大提及的附录之一到三)
「对敏感性肌肤来说,薰衣草是最常被使用也是最安全的精油,中间省略~
至但是香味是用来闻的,不是用来擦的.
---->我想这应该是宝拉的话~ 有兴趣版友可以翻阅书籍~
或者点一下下列网页~
http://www.cosmeticscop.com/ingredient_dictionary.aspx?lid=518
: 之二、
: 「其中「樟脑」是反刺激物,反刺激物会诱发局部的皮肤发炎反应来减
: 轻深部或邻近的发炎,以发炎换另一种发炎。反刺激物对皮肤不好,
: 不论什麽原因造成的皮肤刺激或发炎,都会破坏皮肤的癒合能力和发
: 炎反应。(出处:Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Pharmacology,
: November-December 2000, pages 358-371)这些不好的结果也许肉眼
: 看不出来,也不一定会造成红肿,但只要搽拭这些刺激性物质,皮肤
: 的伤害就会发生,日积月累。(出处:Skin Research and Technology,
: November 2001, pages 227-237)。」
: 反刺激物的存在,或多或少也说明了薰衣草常被用来当纾缓、舒敏产品
: 成分的原因。
3. Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology 2000;13:358-371
http://content.karger.com/ProdukteDB/produkte.asp?Aktion=
ShowAbstract&ArtikelNr=29944&Ausgabe=226598&ProduktNr=224194
摘要:
This study analyses the ability of four non-invasive techniques
(laser Doppler velocimetry, evaporimetry, chromametry and corneometry)
to discriminate between irritant and non-irritant products, when
compared to appropriate controls, and to detect subliminal changes
in barrier function and erythema. These changes, which remain
undetectable in the traditional visual and palpable clinical assessment,
can be used as early reactions that are followed by the development of
overt skin irritation. Laser Doppler velocimetry and evaporimetry were
good discriminators between irritant and non-irritant substances,
whereas corneometry and chromametry did not clearly distinguish
between them. Laser Doppler velocimetry and evaporimetry detected
early stages in the development of an irritant reaction before it
became visible, but chromametry was not able to detect an early
irritant response. It was concluded that non-invasive measurements
could improve the quality and relevance of data obtained from human
irritation testing, since the data they provide are objective,
quantitative and sometimes subclinical, which also allows the
concentration of a positive control to be reduced, resulting in the
induction of less skin damage in human volunteers and reducing the
ethical concerns related to the deliberate induction of an irritant
response in a 'healthy' volunteer.
4.Skin Research and Technology, November 2001, pages 227-237)
http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/mksg/srt/2001/00000007/
00000004/art00005;jsessionid=1vcf2tbu39iuh.alexandra
摘要:
We have developed a simple noninvasive method to assess inflammatory
changes in human skin, even in the absence of visible clinical
irritation. Our approach is based on a simple tape (SebutapeR)
adsorption method to recover molecular mediators of skin inflammation
(e.g., cytokines). This procedure has been used to investigate baseline
cytokine levels on skin, to assess normal skin condition and to
evaluate changes due to chemical insult, existing dermatitis, or
sun exposure. Methods:
In clinical studies, Sebutape was applied to normal appearing
uncompromised skin, as well as to compromised (diaper or heat rash),
chemically treated (sodium laurel sulfate), or sun-exposed skin.
Sebutape was applied to the skin for a 1 min collection interval.
Tapes were extracted in saline using a 10 min sonication, and the
extracts were analyzed for human interleukin-1α (IL-1α), IL-1
receptor antagonist (IL-1RA) and IL-8 using commercial immunoassay
test kits. The cytokine levels recovered from each tape extract were
normalized to total protein (TP) levels. In infant product use tests,
the severity of skin irritation (diaper and heat rash or erythema)
was also assessed using a visual grading scale. Results:
The method itself caused minimal, if any, skin damage. Additionally,
Sebutape was shown to quantitatively adsorb detectable levels of
cytokine from normal-appearing (control) or compromised
(e.g., rashed or chemically treated) skin.
In infant studies, significant increases in IL-1α levels were
found in skin exhibiting diaper rash, heat rash and erythema
compared with normal appearing control skin sites. When these results
were normalized to total protein levels recovered from each tape,
the significance was maintained. A positive correlation
(r <address><spannew id="a2"> =0.82) existed between IL-1RA levels
and diaper rash severity. Significant increases in IL-8 levels were
recovered from diaper rash versus control skin sites.
There were differences in baseline cytokine levels in normal skin
related to body site and sun exposure. The IL-1RA/IL-1α ratios for
sun-exposed skin of the face and lower leg were significantly (P<0.05)
higher (3-6-fold) than those for skin sites that typically receive
minimal sun exposure (i.e., underarm, upper leg and upper back).
There was a significant increase in IL-1α and a directional increase
in IL-8 levels in adult skin sites treated with the irritant, sodium
lauryl sulfate, even in the absence of visible skin irritation
(erythema). </spannew></address> Conclusion:
Our results demonstrate that this method is a useful noninvasive
technique for assessing skin inflammatory events. In addition,
the method is simple and easily applied in a clinical setting,
whether on infants or adults.
: 之三、
: 「在皮肤上使用柠檬烯可能会造成接触性皮肤炎(出处:www.naturaldatabase.com
: ; and Journal of Occupational Health, November 2006, pages 480-486)。」
: 以上资讯都单指皮肤应用上的研究,与薰衣草它领域的运用无涉,意旨非
: 在完全否定芳香疗法。只是以科学的论文探究薰衣草精油以及其萃取在保
: 养领域利用上的可能性与危险性。
5.Journal of Occupational Health, November 2006, pages 480-486
http://joh.med.uoeh-u.ac.jp/e/index.html
摘要:
The purpose of this study was to assess the allergenicity of myoga
and its major volatile components. The volatile components of myoga
were analyzed by gas chromatograph (GC). They included -pinene,
-pinene and R-(+)-limonene. We performed a toxicity study of each
of the major fragrant components of myoga using acute dermal
irritation assays and the Guinea-Pig Maximization test (GPMT) in
order to probe the mechanism of allergic contact dermatitis.
In acute dermal irritation assays, -pinene, -pinene and limonene
showed positive responses at concentrations of 4%; limonene oxide
at 20% and myoga showed a positive response at concentrations of
100%. From the results of the GPMT, according to Kligman scores,
limonene oxide was identified as an extreme skin sensitizer and
myoga as a mild skin sensitizer. The results of the present study
show that R-(+)-limonene is the most important allergen amongst
the chemical components of myoga, and we consider it to be the
reason why myoga cultivators experience allergic contact dermatitis.
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